january 22

Tuesday. It snowed a lot on sunday, after friday’s snow had half melted and the streets and pavements were dark and dirty, and it’s still here, still white, though it mostly dripped off the branches in yesterday’s brief sun. Yesterday I cut a path on the pavement from just beyond the pedestrian crossing to roughly number 47, more than a hundred yards; and brushed it clean and as it grew dark and the street lights began to show tiny glints of frost I sprinkled half a bag of cooking salt which I found in the cupboard, less than a kilo, and that was enough to dampen those crystal lights and give the surface friction. It doesn’t take much salt. Today the council workers are out with their barrows which distribute rock salt like one of those devices you wheel over grass to spread fertiliser.

As well as the sunflower seeds the birds have peanuts, which they’re not so keen on. I brought the peanut feeder down to near the Irish yew and filled it before christmas but there’s still plenty left. Are the peanuts too old? They were at it just now though, tits and the woodpecker. And I’ve started putting out breadcrumbs and other bits and pieces for the birds that don’t cling or eat big seeds, so now we have dunnocks feeding, blackbirds, the pair of wood pigeons and robins of course, as well as great tits and blue tits, the occasional chaffinch, the odd coal tit, and the glorious woodpecker.

 

James Sweeney!  the romantic life of a roadie in the seventies and eighties, the old banger of a guitar. Alcohol: ”can’t live without it, can’t live with it.” He always had kind words for my gardening, and joined in sometimes. I’ve a photograph somewhere of him in the greenhouse, a watering can carefully lifted up to water plants on the bench. I gave him a copy of it, he said, “I could give that to my mum, if I knew where she lived.”  Not so unusual maybe to have lost contact with your mother, though I remember I found it shocking at the time, more unusual to then still want her to see him doing something, making himself useful. He does something he feels good about, and immediately wants his mum to see him doing it. And his Birmingham accent, his heavy, soft face, the shoulder length greasy hair, still dark. In all the raucousness and aggression and boasting at Cedar’s, his mildness and passivity stood out. He made me feel that my work was worthwhile, he probably did more for me than I could do for him. It was he who made me first feel that a lot of what we do is more like working in a hospice than anything else, easing the way to death rather than setting out on the road to Recovery.  James died quickly in the end, of liver failure.

 

As I was getting up this morning what made me think – If Osama bin Laden was evil, in his merciless pursuit of what he saw as wickedness, how many of our generals and other soldiers, kings, judges, inquisitors and other religious leaders were also evil? And that trick which licences cruelty, the denial of the humanity of others, of black people, jews, communists, heretics and also fascists, gypsies, paedophiles, murderers, drug dealers, witches, industrialists, soldiers, policemen, man united fans – there are so many ways in which other people fail to be human, there’s nothing we do quicker than cursing.  Then I remembered a time at  Millennium Green when I caught the dog once again bloating herself as fast as she could with a pile of disgusting old rotting food, and I lost my temper with her kicked her into the van and hit her in the face as she cowered, until she bared her teeth at me, like an uncertain grin, frightened and defenceless except for that gesture, and I was overcome with shame.

 

In 1964 when I was seventeen I spent three weeks staying with a family on a farm in Hülptingsen, a village near Celle, a town near Hanover. One sunday afternoon some neighbours came round and I was introduced to one man with whom I shook hands, and then someone said (something like) ”there! That didn’t hurt did it! You’ve just shaken hands with an SS man! Not a monster, is he?”  and everybody laughed except me. Of course he wasn’t a monster. How much easier if he had been. The problem is that he was fully human, fully banal.   This was two years after the Eichmann trial, and I must have already been familiar with the phrase ‘the banality of evil’. After the war, before he escaped Germany,  Eichmann had spent two years living in a remote village on the Lüneburger Heide, the Lüneburg Heath, close to Celle which was later used for tank exercises by the occupying British forces.

 

We visited the church of St Michael in Hildesheim which was framed with wooden scaffolding as it was slowly, patiently restored with blocks of pure, white limestone hauled up  block by block  by rope and pulley, in the same way as it had been built a thousand years earlier.

 

Frau Bode sat me down and told me that they knew nothing of what was happening during the war. And she was worried that I ate so little.  Actually I was stuffed. I got terrible constipation to which I could not confess. In the end I almost shat myself when I got back to Southampton.

 

They’ve brought ibex back to parts of the French and Italian Alps where they’d been hunted to extinction, reintroduced beavers to the Scottish highlands and the great bustard to Salisbury Plain – they tried at least –  and the wild boar has reintroduced itself after escaping from captivity in the south west. Can’t we have a few sparrows? What is it about ‘charismatic’ creatures – the red kite and the white tailed sea eagle are two others which have been reintroduced successfully in recent years.  But anyway, isn’t the sparrow charismatic? Has it not at least acquired charisma in and through its decline? Give us a few. I promise I’ll look after them. 

 

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Peniarth-uchaf

I was reluctant to write a conclusion, because of its banality, and because I’m embarrassed that I didn’t read the landscape more clearly at first.

The combination of order and confusion, of care and neglect, gives a special feeling to the estate. The agricultural buildings are all dilapidated, but the main house and cottages are kept up.  The woodland is thick with both saplings and dying trees and fallen branches, but the paths and verges are neat, and the grass in the almost empty walled garden is mown. Mowing and strimming stand in for all other kinds of maintenance and management. The wilderness of the woods has clean edges. There are no vegetables in the walled garden but no nettles and thistles either and mown grass lends a sense of orderliness.

I googled Peniarth-uchaf to try to find out about the history of the estate and found the web sites of book cottages, cottage choice, cottage reservations, cottages4you,  welsh country cottages,  visit midwales,  travelpod,  drivingwithdogs,  accommodation britain, apartments.oodle, uk holiday shop, world stay.com, wales.olx.co.uk,  self catering.travel, trip advisor, wales directory. So that peculiar combination of neatness and decay is the world of the holiday rental. And the friendly notice on the door of the walled garden, allowing us entry if we bolt the door behind us afterwards,  is addressed, not to the curious traveller, but to the tenants.

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Peniarth-uchaf

 Yesterday I woke up writing.

that’s the cover of the book.

and this could be the last page:

There are two years, could maybe be twenty, between these photographs, which were taken on a dilapidated estate called Peniarth-uchaf in the Dysynni valley, which runs up from Tywyn towards Cader Idris in North Wales.  Here’s an aside, before approaching the garden: this is what dilapidated means:

Sorry – I got that wrong. Dilapidated means ‘de-stoned’,  but now I see that it’s the stones that fall last; first the windows, slates and timbers break, rot, slide off.  Gardens go first, but the idea of the garden might remain. The root idea of a garden is an enclosure. The walled garden at Peniarth is an almost empty box. The wall is capped by slates with a silvery sheen, similar to the Welsh sky, in even the weakest sunlight.  The bark of the trees has the same sheen.

I meant to write a very simple little piece about gardens, but I’m very shy of approaching the subject directly and am immediately taken with the meanings of the thickening tangle of branches obscuring the plain but distant  rectangle with its silvery gleam, and was distracted by the pedantic possibilities of ‘dilapidated’.  I remember that coming up to Wales on the train I saw that same grey silver in a thousand cars in Birmingham.  I’ll start again with the story.

  The walk began with a different kind of garden in Llanegryn. Is this a garden? If not, what is it?

The silent estate at Peniarth, where on three visits I have never seen a living soul, is approached through woodland along public footpaths which give confidence to those whose walks in the British countryside can feel like recces through battlefields of class conflict and fear they might be threatened or prosecuted as trespassers, (especially if they are with a dog, however well behaved.)

In the middle of the estate you come to a dark thicket of yew trees, and behind them a gleam of light:

On the door is a notice, and you think it’s going to say KEEP OUT! GO AWAY!

But it doesn’t:

And inside is an old apple tree snowed under with lichen:

 having made heavy weather of that, (more grey than silver,) I’ll leave it there for now

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the blood donor

Here’s a story with a good and easy ending (easy to tell), but I haven’t worked out how to tell the middle.
I went to give blood a few years ago, at the anonymous, cosmopolitan donor centre in the West End, just off Oxford Street. The guy who took a sample of my blood to test for anaemia was black, and had an unusual accent, like a mixture of Canada and the deep south. I must have been in an unusually confident, sociable mood and have wanted to make contact. I must have felt dissatisfied with the silence and the distance which usually characterise these situations. I asked him about his accent, enquiring where he came from, and he made it plain that he was offended by this intrusion. Did I apologise and persist? Was I stupid enough to try to explain my interest in his accent even after he had made it clear that he resented it? What I do remember clearly is that I said that although he seemed to have this accent from the southern states, he also had a characteristic Canadian way of pronouncing a certain sound. And he said coldly, ‘Oh? What sound would that be?’ I was so mortified by that time that I couldn’t even remember, but it was the diphthong in house or mouse or down (or Down since it seems closely related to the same vowel in Ulster speech.) Then he told me, as if to say, ok, smart arse, that he came from Carolina but had lived in Canada, as if I’d dragged that information out of him. By that time I didn’t want to know. And all this while a drop of my blood fell into the little tube of liquid and slowly dissolved and sank.
Then it was time to leave the intimate little booth and go back to the waiting room to wait until I was called to give blood. I picked up the book I was reading, Joseph Roth’s The Wandering Jews, and I read these words:
‘Oh- the whole world thinks in such tired, worn, traditional clichés. It never asks the
wanderer where he’s going, only ever where he’s come from. And what matters to the
wanderer is his destination, not his point of departure.’
I felt terrible. But at the same time my mind was shining in the great light of coincidence.

I had thought that people liked to be asked about their past. The trouble with that sentence of course is the word ‘people’. But in my work at St Mungo’s I’ve met many people who’ve lit up when asked about Ireland or Scotland or Portugal or Morocco. Or Kent or Islington. Maybe that’s because they weren’t going anywhere. The past draws near as the future recedes. On the other hand, refugees from Iraq or Afghanistan or Somalia don’t want to talk about home. What Nassim told me about eating cherries with lemon and salt is the only thing he ever said about Afghanistan.

I think again about the Kindertransport memorial. The original little girl seems to have no future. She’s traumatised. She was surrounded by the things of the past, the things of home, photographs of the dead, children’s books and toys. The children with their heads in the air who replaced her, they do have a suitcase or two, and a violin, but they’re looking towards a new destination. They’ll take the future in their stride.

(Remembering now that recorded message: ‘the destination of this bus has changed. Please listen for further announcements’. Shortly afterwards comes another: ‘this bus terminates here.’)

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are coincidences like art?

wednesday july 21 2010. We picked cherries in Meanwhile Gardens. No one else does. They’re sour and sweet. Nassim told me that in Afghanistan they eat cherries with lemon and a little salt.  Then I heard on the radio that Beethoven wrote in a letter to a friend, ‘please send me some more stewed cherries, but cooked properly, without lemon.’  

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A bit of a laugh

There was a Tory MP on the radio this morning warning against a wealth tax. He said we must be careful not to kill the goose that lays the golden eggs. Like that MP I know little about economics but I do like an argument built on insulting metaphors and I have to say I can’t see any bloody eggs – that goose just waddles about and shits on the grass.  Talking about language, the point of learning English grammar and some French and a little Latin is so that you can have a bit of a laugh as you grow older. It’s no use fighting; the apostrophe war was probably lost round about the time that Eats Shoots and Leaves came out. Maybe Lynne Truss actually helped to bring about defeat. Some people appeared to panic and get the whole thing completely wrong, some tried diligently and made ingenious mistakes which no one had ever made before, and some decided they didn’t give a fuck and put them in or left them out at random just to annoy the bourgeoisie, though you can’t always tell which one is which.  Today it wasn’t apostrophes.   Today I enjoyed the Award Winning restaurant in Waterloo Road where you can eat Al a carte and the Thai take away advertising a large portion for £4.50 or a student for £4.20.

This is my favourite recent language joke:

 

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Cypripedium calceolus

I spent a few days in the Gasterntal in Switzerland at the end of June. There in the woods grows the only north European orchid with the extravagant beauty of many tropical orchids.

That it is to be found in several places in the valley is an open secret. Seeing me looking at flowers a couple told me where I could find some of the orchids, Frauenschuh in German, women’s shoe. Soon after, someone who saw me taking photos of other flowers asked me if I knew where they were to be found. I ended up having four or five little conversations about them. Not advertised or sign posted,  they encourage human contact, and trust. The best known site is obvious once you’re on the right track, a well worn circuit of narrow paths leads you round seven or eight gorgeous little colonies, all intact, all sacred.

Sheila and I had seen one or two once before, in the Vercors, near Grenoble, when again someone led us through the trees to find them. But it was growing dark -we had got lost – and we could hardly see them. In France they call them ‘sabot de Venus’.  There’s one  in Yorkshire, they say, where no one gives away the secret location and they are reputed to be guarded round the clock. We call them lady’s slipper.

Take your pick.  Frauenschuh, down to earth;  lady’s slipper, more refined; but I prefer sabot de Venus. The French win with that nice conjunction of clogs and Venus. (Like the pop song? Venus in blue jeans?)

And cypripedium… why do some names stick? I spent half the weekend trying to remember the word  ‘decathlon’,  even looking at labels on my cagoule etc, but they just said ‘Quechua’ of course. Why Quechua – another forgotten language? and what a disappointment when I did remember, or rather finally found the word on a little label inside my rucksack; at first I could only find ‘Forclaz’. (What’s that?)   Anyway, cypripedium also means Venus’s slipper. (As in Cyprus, the island of Venus.) But calceolus  means ‘little shoe’, so the whole name is clumsy, if unforgettable.

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